Tarahumara Marathon – 11/23/03
I’ve wanted to take a jog with the Tarahumara’s ever since reading about them in our “Mexico on $10 a Day” guidebook during our 30 day Trek to Mexico in 1978. They live in the canyons that make up the Copper Canyon and run against neighboring villages in teams during festivals. They kick a wooden ball in front of them as they run. They’ve come to the U.S. to run and have won races like the Leadville, CO 100 miler.
Back in August when my brother Doyle was in Colorado Springs to run the Pikes Peak Ascent with me, I mentioned that we should go run a marathon with the Tarahumaras. Punching in “Tarahumara Marathon” into an internet search brought up CaballoBlanco.com, the Website of Micah True. Noticing an offer to run with the Tarahumaras on November 23rd brought my blood to a boil since I’d planned to visit the Copper Canyon in that timeframe anyway. The “run” was listed as 27 – 29 miles with a 4,000-foot elevation gain plus another 2,000-foot gain/loss as you cross the 6,000-foot elevation plateau.
Micah did a fantastic job communicating with me via Email with all kinds of insight about the race and logistics associated with it. When I realized that I’d have to hike the course in reverse over a couple of days prior to running the race, I started to worry. I wasn’t worried so much about completing the distance but I wanted to finish in the 11-hour cut-off time and make it into the “Club Mas Loco” that Micah created for those who successfully complete the race.
I drove to Creel (hub for most Copper Canyon visitors) with my van, two buddies (Bryan Carson and Tom Petty), and our three dirt-bikes on a trailer. The famous Copper Canyon train runs through Creel. Our plan was to leave the van in Creel and ride to Urique, on via Tubares to Batopilas, and return to Creel with exploration side-trips along the way.
Micah’s plan was to meet in Urique (a cool village that looks like it did at the turn of the century) on Thursday at Noon for a runners meeting, then hike to Los Alisos rancho to camp out. It’s about 9 miles to the rancho and about 1,000-foot elevation gain. Diego (Doug Rhodes - MexicoHorse.com) showed up with one of his guided horseback tours from his Rancho del Oso near Cerocahui. His crew quickly got a campfire/cooking fire going and started to prepare a sumptuous meal for his clients (Bryan and Wendy from Chicago). Meanwile, Caballo Blanco and I were hanging out and visiting with Prospero and his wife Sabina in their cozy kitchen with wood burning cookstove built on adobe bricks and corn grinding stone (matate) next to it mounted on adobe bricks as well. We slept under the stars (Have you seen the Milky Way look like a cloud across the sky?) and dreamed about crossing the Sierra Madre.
Urique lies in it’s own canyon and sits at about 1,800 foot elevation while Batopilas is about twenty miles away (as the crow flies) and across the Sierra Madre sitting in it’s own canyon at about 1,800 feet elevation. The plateau is about six miles across and sits at 6,000 feet elevation. You gain/lose about 2,000 feet as you cross the plateau and wind in and out and up and down in the side canyons.
Up, up, up we hiked as we headed for Batopilas. Soon the rancho looked like a speck in the bottom of the canyon. Hiking across the plateau was pleasant as we passed by a few ranchos and walked on soft dirt trails covered with pine needles. The trail up was extremely rocky with 3 – 4 inch “rollers” to twist ankles on. Fantastic views opened up as we reached the Batopilas side of the plateau and passed by the “caseta” or small sheter someone had built there. Now it was time for 4,000 feet of downhill to the village of Cerro Colorado. From there we followed the stream into the Batopilas canyon and walked along the aqueduct built by Alexander Shepard around 1880 when he built the bueatiful Hacienda San Miguel to house his family, workers, and process the huge amount of silver from the local mines.
Batopilas looked great as we passed under the bridge across the river and past the Hacienda. Caballo headed for his house and I checked-in at the lovely Minas Hotel just off the main plaza. I was ready for two nights rest before starting the race at 7 AM on Sunday.
Micah and I were sitting on the benches in front of Mario’s tienda (small store) on Saturday night wondering if any Tarahumaras would show up for the mandatory runners meeting. Sure enough, at 4:45 PM, five Raramuri (Tarahumara word for runners) came walking up the street. After a review of the race plan by Micah, we sat together at Grandma Clarita’s for a great dinner.
Sunday – 7 AM – After a great breakfast at Grandma Clarita’s and a quick photo Op., we left the start line in front of Micah’s house and headed for Cerro Colorado. It’s around 9 miles to Cerro Colorado, another 9 over the plateau to Los Alisos, and another 9 to Urique. For this race there were no course markings and the only “aid” station was at Los Alisos. Prospero and his wife prepared some burritos, water, Pinole (ground roasted corn, that you mix with water – no Tarahumara would go into the mountains without it), and fresh grapefruit, and when I arrived, I hung around for a cup of coffee.
Caballo Blanco and the Tarahumaras ran away from me before we got out of Batopilas. I was on my own for the rest of the race. I was thankful I’d recorded a track in my GPS on my way over and I referred to it constantly during the race. The weather was quite hot (around 80 degrees) climbing the plateau in the morning and descending it in the afternoon. I ran when I could and hiked when I had to. Carrying around 6 pounds in my hydration pack slowed me down a little. I took about 3 eight minute shoe clean-out breaks and 2 fifteen minute lunch breaks along the way. Somehow I managed to do a bit of a sprint the last couple of blocks to the finish line in Urique and all the Tarahumaras were there waiting along with Caballo and other town people. It was great! I made it in to the “Club Mas Loco” and earned my T-shirt. Wow!
We enjoyed a wonderful dinner at Grandma Tita’s and Micah handed out the generous cash awards to the Tarahumara’s. A really nice wrap-up to a great event.
Thanks again to Micah True for his great organization of all the logistics for the run. Micah’s hospitality and contacts provided a truly wonderful experience.
Results:
1. Manuel Luna (39) 5:20 Gavilana
2. Martin (18) 5:25 Chinivo
3. Herbalisto (46) 5:49 Chinivo
4. Florencio (20) 5:50 Acorare
5. Maurilio (29) 5:51 Acorare
6. Caballo Blanco (50) 6:35 Colorado/Batopilas
7. Mel Downs (61) 9:59 Colorado
End
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Mel Downs (and Sandie)
7310 Woodmen Mesa Cir.
Colorado Springs, CO 80919
Tel 719-599-9732
Cel 719-660-7016
Email MegaMel@megamel.com
www.MegaMel.com